Microneedling Might be Your Solution to Acne Scars

Microneedling – What Is It and Do I Need to Do It?  

Have you heard of microneedling? Most of us are no longer convinced of offers for “one size fits all” beauty products or treatments. We know that everyone has different skin types, different conditions and concerns, and all kinds of different skin care needs. That may be why some of us greet the news of microneedling and its “multi-purpose” treatment options with skepticism.

After all, as one beauty expert wrote, if “looking to improve the look of scars, boost collagen, or encourage hair growth, microneedling can offer a minimally invasive solution.” And for some of us, that can seem like the “sounds too good to be true,” type of solution. And yet, it has been around for several decades and has gained traction with experts and beauty enthusiasts alike. Dermatologists write about its benefits and use it for their patients, and it has proven effective in all of those areas cited above.

The fullest list of issues it can (and has) effectively treat, according to experts, are:

• “wrinkles
• scarring
• acne
• alopecia
• skin pigmentation issues
• stretch marks
• rosacea
• loose skin, such as after weight loss or liposuction

It may also help rejuvenate the skin.”

So, Just What Does Microneedling Do to You?

Microneedling goes by a few names, “skin needling, collagen induction therapy (CIT), and percutaneous collagen induction (PCI).”

Described as one of the most reliable ways of getting facial rejuvenation, without any need for surgery, it is as it sounds, and uses very fine needles. They are inserted into the skin with a device called a dermaroller. The needles in the device vary in size, but all are of a micro-fine gauge of .5 to 2.5 millimeters. The treatment is a lot more like pinpricks than deep punctures. The depth of the pinpricks is shallow and minimal at best, hitting only the surface levels.

And what can puncturing of the skin actually do? As another expert said in the simplest way: Microneedling will “stimulate skin cells for proliferation. This multiplication results in the creation of new tissue layers of elastin and collagen fibers, as well as improved blood supply.”

This is why it can help with scars (including acne scars, wounds, surgical scars, and even stretch marks), lines and wrinkles, larger pores and odd skin tone/texture, and more.

If you are asking whether or not it triggers the body’s healing process to create results, you are on to something!

If you are then suggesting it is likely to be very painful, well…on that statement you are not so close to the mark. This is because most who have had it done say “it actually feels like getting sandpaper moved across your skin,” and a patient who is uncomfortable with that can get a topical anesthetic to make it easier.

It takes only half an hour to administer the treatment, and there is minimal swelling or redness that results. Because it is a form of injury, it may create results almost immediately.

What Occurs During Microneedling?

When getting a treatment, the process is remarkably simple:

• Skin is cleansed and a numbing agent applied, if desired
• Collagen stimulating treatments may be pre-applied, and substances like natural Vitamin C serums, hyaluronic acid or a skin pigmentation product may be used
• The dermaroller is fitted with its micro-needles and used at the appropriate speed and depth to pierce the skin; creating the desired response and also helping to introduce and absorb any treatments applied prior to the use of the dermaroller
• After treatment is complete, additional products meant to soothe, intensely hydrated, protect and heal may be used

Immediately after treatment, the skin can be slightly red and mildly swollen, with the same look as if a sunburn occurred. This can last for that brief window of time (24-48 hours), and some may even experience a bit of light bleeding or bruising. However, even the most extreme responses disappear quickly, and the results of the treatment emerge shortly afterward.

The most common response to treatment within a few days’ time is for a brighter and smoother complexion with more radiant skin as the result. No real down time is needed, but many will apply some sun screen and hyaluronic acid to quickly reduce unwanted reactions.

Healthline says that the treatment is “considered safe for most people who are in overall good health,” but not for those on certain acne medication. It explains that with total prep, it takes two hours.

Related: This is How Often You Should Exfoliate

How Long Can It Take to See Results?

One plastic surgeon explained that many of their patients are surprised to see results instantly. “As soon as the micro-wounds are created within the skin, the body’s wound healing processes respond to heal them. This means collagen production is accelerated, along with cellular turnover.” However, that same professional says that most people who have microneedling should expect their results to develop over the next four to six weeks.

Most experts discussing microneedling or writing about it say that it is not often a “once and done” treatment, however, and that ideal outcomes are reached only with multiple treatments.

Why? Again, as the medical experts have explained, the process “increases the production of collagen and other healing factors by causing trauma to the skin. Collagen is an essential protein that helps keep the skin looking youthful, with a firm, smooth, and stretchy texture.

Aging causes the decline of collagen in the skin, contributing to wrinkles and other signs of aging. Skin can also lose collagen due to injuries, such as acne scarring, stretch marks, or other scars.

It is important to realize that microneedling is not a quick fix, as it involves the growth of new skin. It can take several months for a person to see the full results of the procedure.”

Related: If You Have Acne – You Need to Know This About Salicylic Acid

Are the Results Permanent?

Additionally, the results are never permanent. As one spa skin care expert noted, “The effects of the initial round of microneedling treatments last on average between four to six weeks, for most people. That said, the amount of treatments and exact time frame will depend on your issues, age, skin type, and how your skin responds to the treatment.

However long your individual results last, the effects of microneedling are not permanent, so you will need to continue taking treatments in order to maintain those effects. Once maximum results have been reached, your clinician will start scheduling maintenance treatments, which may be anywhere between six to twelve months apart.”

Clearly, it will also have to do with the issues you are addressing. For example, acne scarring will react differently to the treatment than something like light stretch marks or larger pores. Of course, the person who provides the care can help to make a difference in the outcomes.

In other words, it should be done by an expert, such as a licensed and certified dermatologist or esthetician trained and certified in such treatments. And if wondering just how often it can or should be done, the experts say that it can be done “every 4-6 weeks until you achieve the desired results,” and that three treatments is a good starting point, though people addressing scars with microneedling may want up to six to get the best results.

It is not meant for the face alone, either, and can be “used on all skin parts of the body (neck, décolleté, arms, legs, etc.),” and “It’s safe and effective for all types and colors of skin. There is no risk of post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation.”

Are There Risks Involved?

With mention of it being safe and effective for all types and colors of skin, we should consider if there are any risks or side effects. There are no known side effects or negative effects from the procedure alone, except for those already noted. To reiterate, though, the most common side effect is mild skin irritation after the treatment. There are a few other issues to be aware of, including swelling, discomfort, redness, dryness, bleeding, peeling, bruising, and infection.

Also, people with open wounds, undergoing radiation therapy, and those with psoriasis and eczema may not be good candidates. Anyone who is pregnant, and those who scar easily may also want to hold off on treatment before consulting with their medical professionals.

One of the more serious risks is when there are topical treatments used during treatment, and some may have an adverse reaction to the medication rather than the treatment itself.

Applying makeup within two to three days of a microneedling treatment is not advised, either as this can irritate and even reduce the effects. Mineral makeups are the ideal option in the post-treatment period, but even then, that two- to three-day window of time is best. For those who find this unacceptable, it may be necessary to plan a post-treatment period of time off from work or socializing to protect the skin and get the best results.

Related: Must Know Foundation Tips for Acne Prone Skin

How Much Does Microneedling Cost?

There is no firm answer to that question for a few reasons. The first is that each person’s needs are very different, and that can make costs vary from $100 to several hundred. Additionally, many experts suggest microneedling treatments in conjunction with other therapies. This is why a fair answer to the question is that it can cost from $100 for a basic treatment to upwards of $700 when it is part of a broader treatment that includes medication or topical treatment applications.

This is not something that is covered by insurances, and it is why many have turned to at-home products as an alternative.

Are There At-Home Microneedling Products?

In a word: Yes. There are actually many companies now producing dermarollers for at-home use by average consumers. Yet, as most consumers might have already guessed, there are a few pros and cons to the at-home option.

The most common downsides include:

• The “at-home microneedling devices are difficult to clean and dull quickly,” according to many skincare professionals.
• “There is a higher risk of infection, discoloration, and injury to your skin,” when using them at home.
• “You can get a deeper treatment at the dermatologist’s office,” says another expert who notes that you get some pain and a little gain at home, whereas you experience little to no pain and noticeable gain with the experts.
• There are multi-treatment tools in professional settings, such as the “in-office, radio-frequency, needling device that is great for rejuvenating the skin and also for treating things like acne scars and stretch marks. The depth of the needle can be varied, so you get the benefit of being able to individually tailor the procedure to what is needed”.
• The FDA has issued alerts to both manufacturers and consumers about the products touted as microneedling rollers and pens. These focused on effectiveness and risk for causing pain and negative reactions.

Should a consumer avoid them because of the cons listed above? That is difficult to say because some beauty product enthusiasts have raved about the options they have put to the test. One noted that by combining the use of a consumer dermaroller (with an at-home program designed with the help of a dermatologist friend) with topical treatments, great results were gained in a week.

Because of fears of cleanliness, there are also some companies producing dermarollers that are thrown away every two to three months and replaced via a subscription service.

In Conclusion

Microneedling has become a key component in the professional and at-home world of skincare. It has proven itself effective in triggering the production of collagen and elastin, thereby boosting overall skin health and condition. It does have some side effects or risks for those with pre-existing skin conditions or health issues, but it is one of the only non-invasive, no downtime, skin regenerative options. Work with an expert to get a consult and then formulate your plans for enjoying baby-soft skin in as little as a few weeks’ time!

Related: Dermaplaning 101

More Great Microneedling Resources:

How At-Home Microneedling Can Reduce Scars, Spots, and Lines

Microneedling: The Latest Craze in Skin Care

Dermapen: ​Q&A About Medical Micro-Needling