Dermaplaning 101

What is It and Should You Have It Done?

Those of us who follow news in the world of beauty treatments may already be familiar with the concept of dermaplaning (pronounced der-mah-plane-ing). On the other hand, many of us have not. The majority actually fall somewhere in the middle and know it has something to do with shaving, but are not 100% clear on just what sort of shaving is done during a treatment. In this article, we are going to learn all about dermaplaning 101, including:

• What it is?
• What are the benefits?
• If there are side effects?
• Is it a treatment with any downtime or a recovery period?
• How often it must be done?
• Where to get it done, and whether it is an at-home option?
• The cost of treatment

So, let’s get right to the basics: what is it?

Dermaplaning Explained

An article in Cosmo had this to say about dermaplaning: we all have “layers upon layers of dead skin cells just chillin’ on your face, contributing to some of your most annoying skin issues: dullness, wrinkles, breakouts, you name it. Don’t freak—it’s totally natural, and by the grace of the skincare gods, you also have a ton of options to get rid of them, the most trendy of them being dermaplaning.”

So, that tells us right away that the “shaving” we know is involved in the process is actually not about hair alone.  In fact, it has very little to do with hair removal. Again, let’s see what Cosmo says about it. Dermaplaning “is an exfoliating treatment that involves a doctor or licensed medical aesthetician gently scraping the surface of your skin with a surgical scalpel to remove dead skin and peach fuzz.”

As you might guess, it will leave your face feeling smooth and silky and will eliminate any unwanted and unwelcome hair. The expert is going to employ a very special technique and a very sharp scalpel to do the work, and will never use such things as “lasers, tweezers, wax, or other painful alternatives,” say the experts at Elle Magazine.

Related: Everything You Need to Know About Salicylic Acid

What’s the Best Skin Type to Use Dermaplaning?

The medical experts say that it will be effective on any skin type, and can be used to address:

• “Acne scars
• Dull skin
• Dry skin
• Sun-damaged skin
• Fine wrinkles”

The basic idea is to aim “a sterile blade at a 45-degree angle and [drag] it slowly across skin… remove dead cells, scar tissue, and other debris that may be making your skin’s surface look uneven… Dermaplaning clears away those damaged skin cells so newer skin cells are what you see when you look in the mirror.”

As you might guess, though, it involves a few steps. Most treatments start out with a deep cleaning of the skin, and only then does the painless and gentle dermplane treatment begin. The provider (who should be a licensed professional) will gently stretch the skin and use the scalpel (which may be a standard scalpel or an electronic device) to scrape very targeted areas of the face. It is usually included in a more in-depth facial, and many providers will clean the skin, do the dermaplaning, and then exfoliate. They may finish with a soothing treatment as well as sunblock to protect the freshly exposed skin cells.

Are There Benefits?

Of course, asking if there are benefits to dermaplaning is a bit rhetorical. After all, it eliminates those fine hairs and cues your skin to look its very best. It evens out the texture of the skin and brings a healthy glow that can last for days or even more than a week after. It causes faster cell turnover, meaning it may even offer a hint of anti-aging.

As the team at Byrdie noted, another of the benefits is that doctors “might recommend dermaplaning to anyone who is about to undergo a laser treatment or deep chemical peel, to allow the products to penetrate more deeply into the skin,” hinting that it might boost the outcome of those procedures.

One professional skin care provider said that the list of benefits is even greater, listing the following as expected outcomes:

• “Provides deeper product penetration
• Removes soft facial hair that traps dirt and oils
• Promotes smoother skin
• Safe procedure for removing dead skin cells and ‘peachfuzz’
• Reduces the appearance of acne scars
• Diminishes the look of fine lines
• Works on all skin types
• Instant results and no downtime”

This makes it sound as if there are no potential risks and that it is fine for all people, but neither is true. Let’s turn our attention to the potential “cons” or downsides of the treatment.

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Are There Side Effects?

Again, medical experts say that it is a low-risk treatment and that any side effects are mild and include:

• A bit of redness to the skin in the hours after the procedure is completed
• Some will experience slight breakouts because of the healing process in the skin
• Scarring is only possible if done by someone untrained or unlicensed in the practice
• Those with pre-existing conditions like uneven skin pigmentation may find they develop patchy pigmentation afterwards, but it often fades or disappears as time passes.
• Skin may have some slight peeling, but often this is due to too many treatments in too short a span of time and is associated with hair growth cycles more than skin condition

And though many people are, as the team at Refinery29 noted, “under the impression that shaving hair causes it to grow back thicker and darker… that is actually not the case.” Having the treatment does “not cause the vellus hair on your face to grow back thicker or darker. Re-growth after shaving may feel slightly different because the hair has been cut straight across.” They go on to point out that balding men who shave their heads would have proven that to be the case, but as male baldness does not lessen if the head is manually shaved, it proves that dermaplaning does not lead to worsening facial hair issues.

What about the downtime? To move on to that next point in our list of factors we are going to consider in this discussion of dermaplaning, there is no downtime, but as noted if you are sensitive about your skin appearing red and irritated or you intend to spend time outdoors, you will need to think of one or two days after treatment as a period for downtime. This is because you’ll need to stay out of the sun and wear sunblock to prevent damage to the newly exposed skin cells.

Related: This is How Often You Should Exfoliate

How Often is Dermaplaning Needed?

Though there is no real downtime, there is a need for repeat treatments in order to glean the greatest benefits. Most experts say that it is something that should (can) be repeated every three to four weeks because each treatment effectively removes roughly that same span’s accumulation of dead cells and fine hair growth.

It is important to keep track of the time between treatments, though, because too frequent treatments can lead to problems. For example, one expert said that sometimes “after dermaplaning, the skin will end up peeling slightly.  This normally only happens when there is not enough time in between treatments to let the hair’s growth cycle be completed.  This is why it is important to leave enough time between visits to get the best results.”

A good professional provider will ensure that you are not having it done too often.

And at this point, we have to consider the importance of a professional doing the treatment.

Can You Do It at Home?

So, where should you get your dermaplaning done, and more significantly, can you do this yourself?

Let’s look at what several different experts have to say about it:

• Medical experts say that “Dermaplaning is safe for most people, with little risk of side effects when it’s performed by a certified dermatologist.” The italics are ours, and emphasize that you will want to look into options in your area for certified dermatologists or professional estheticians offering the treatment. Those same experts say that you can buy a tool used to perform the treatment, but “giving yourself a dermaplaning treatment may not yield the results that you’re hoping for, and there are some risks…Anecdotally, the risk of infection, complications, and experiencing pain during home dermaplaning is higher when you do it yourself.”
• The team at Allure says, “it’s really important to note there’s a difference between in-office and at-home dermaplaning…In an in-office setting, a straight-edge razor or a surgical #10 scalpel (it has a curved edge) is used by a licensed professional, such as a dermatologist, aesthetician, or a registered nurse at a medical spa, according to Benjamin. As mentioned earlier, the nonsurgical procedure involves no downtime.” Doing it at home means finding a dermatologist approved, “goof proof” blade, and learning how to do it.
• Experts at Refinery 29 explain that “Although DIY skin-care methods are popular right now, because dermaplaning uses a professional blade, it is best to have it done by a licensed aesthetician who has been professionally trained. The benefit of getting the treatment done with an aesthetician is that they know exactly how many passes to do over the skin, so there’s no danger of getting too much (or too little) exfoliation. A trained esthetician can customize the treatment depending on the number of passes or adding a peel to make sure treatment is effective and gives the desired results…Plus, in a professional setting, you’re probably also looking at some post-dermaplaning comforting treatments. A cold ultrasound and cold mask, which hydrate the new cells with potent antioxidants to soothe inflammation and reduce post-procedure redness, are common techniques.”

In a nutshell, you CAN do it yourself, but most professionals say you SHOULD have experts handle it instead.

Related: A Skin Detox May Be Just What You Need

Is it for Everyone?

For example, SELF magazine says that there are “a few instances where you should think twice before signing up for dermaplaning.” This includes:

• Those with acne may find that it is an irritating and potentially harmful treatment because it can nick active breakouts causing bleeding and risking infection
• Those with a history of cold sores have to be on specific medications and avoid the area of typical break out
• Anyone who does not use sun protection or who will ignore post-treatment advice from their provider
• Those who suffer from rosacea may want to skip the treatment
• Anyone with extremely sensitive skin
• Anyone who will not halt retinol or glycolic acid treatments in the days after a treatment

Choosing to get the treatment with any of these issues or behaviors may result in everything from scarring and infection to flareups and breakouts.

What is the Cost?

It is difficult to pin down a precise cost for dermaplaning because prices will vary from place to place. Generally, it is going to run from $150 to $250 per treatment. Keep in mind that it may be combined with an in-depth facial treatment, and so prices may be much higher or lower based on the array of services done.

Remember too that it is not a treatment covered by insurance, and it ends up having a per session price. Typically it will take less than an hour to complete, but the results are so dramatic that many people are happy to absorb this ongoing expense to enjoy the benefits of dermaplaning.

Related: To Use or Not to Use – Facial Cleansing Brushes

Getting Started

If you are now interested in some dermaplaning for your skin care needs or to see if it will help with skin issues, take some time to shop around and find providers with a good history of offering such services. They should be licensed either as a dermatologist or esthetician, and they should be ready and willing to answer all of your questions about it. If they do tell you that anyone is a candidate, you already know that is not the truth and should look elsewhere. Work with someone who will do an initial consult and work out the right set of steps (including a facial) if that is what will benefit you the most from this innovative and effective option.

More Great Dermaplaning Resources:

I Tried At-Home Dermaplaning and I’m Not Sure How to Feel

The Benefits Of Dermaplaning

What’s Up With Dermaplaning? Here’s What Scalpel Facials Are Actually Doing to Your Face