Blackheads: Everything You Need to Know

You might read the title above and think, “Well, I don’t really want to know much about blackheads.” The problem with that line of thinking is that avoiding the information doesn’t allow you to avoid the issue. Blackheads are a very common skin issue, and the more that you know about them the more you can combat them and easily address them when they appear.

So, let’s start with the obvious: What are blackheads

Blackheads Explained

According to medical experts, blackheads are “small, dark lesions that appear on the skin, often on the face and neck. They are a feature of mild acne, but they can appear without other signs of acne being present.”

And why is it that they look the way they do? In other words, just why are blackheads black in appearance, and what on earth are they? Those same medical experts would say, that blackheads are caused by “an oxidized version of melanin, the dark pigment made by cells in the skin.”

Of course, that leads to another question – why would that occur? What causes this to happen?

Related: The Complete Guide to Acne

What Is the Cause of a Blackhead?

Skin and health experts explain that a blackhead occurs when a pore “becomes occluded with sebum (oil) and dead skin cells,” it typically causes the materials to solidify and discolor and darken. This is what then becomes a blackhead. It happens to many different groups of people and an array of skin conditions can lead to the development of blackheads.

For example, the most common reasons someone develops blackheads are:

• They are in early stages of acne.
• Having a lot of sun exposure and the skin is experiencing elastotic degeneration, which leaves yellow bumpy deposits of degenerated collagen along with blackheads.
• They are experiencing chloracne, which is due to absorption of toxins or dioxins.
• Work in metal machinery and are exposed to cutting oils that clog the skin.
• They use hair products that (when in contact with skin) cause acne and blackheads.
• Use makeup that includes comedogenic substances (comedo and comedones are the technical names of blackheads, so a comedogenic substance is one prone to causing blackheads).
• They are using antipsychotic and anti-seizure medications that are comedogenic.
• Have a epithelial nevi birthmark that typically causes blackheads.
• Their pores are heavily dilated and unable to close, leading to chronic clogging and blackheads.
• They may be due to the use of oil-based skin care formulas, living and working in a chronically humid setting, wearing overly tight clothing or using skin products with alcohol.
• Age and hormones are also part of the underlying causes for blackheads, and they are most common during puberty.
• Their body overproduces skin cells.
• They shave the area often and open follicles which can then clog.
• Suffer certain health issues such as PCOS (Polycystic ovarian syndrome) or PMS.
• They use steroid-based drugs like corticosteroids.
• Excessively scrubbing the skin, which can worsen blackheads and acne.

Related: Microneedling Might be Your Solution to Acne Scars

What Is the Difference Between Blackheads and Pimples?

We just used blackheads and acne in the same sentence, and that leads to another question: Are they, essentially the same thing as breakouts and pimples?

The answer to that is a simple “no.”

While the experts at VeryWell Health would tell you that both “pimples and blackheads are types of acne blemishes. But…blemishes develop differently, and are treated differently too.” By blemish, they mean a pimple, which is an inflamed blemish.

A blemish is usually associated with acne, and will be either a papule at the surface of the skin (without a white head), they can be a pustule that does have a white head and is what most think of when hearing the word “pimple.” There are also nodules that are large and inflamed lesions that form deeper below the surface of the skin, and there are cysts that are larger and inflamed lesions and lead to pain and lengthy healing processes. Both nodules and cysts are best if treated by a dermatologist and may require oral medication.

Related: Dermaplaning 101

So, any pimple is going to be inflamed and red. A blackhead, on the other hand, is never inflamed. Instead, they often lay flat and have only that darker discoloration and no inflammation in the area. While they can appear in the same area of the skin at the same time, they are not the same issue.

And what about treating them? How do you treat pimples versus blackheads? There are a lot of acne medications and treatment options, and some people have acne to such a painful degree that they opt for medical intervention, including oral medications.

Blackheads, of course, are not as serious and can be treated on a DIY basis.

The Gentle Art of Treating Blackheads

As is so often the case with medical issues, prevention is far better for the issue than treatment, and so it is a good idea to create a healthy skincare routine that limits the risks for the development of blackheads. This includes the use of a gentle exfoliant that will not irritate the skin or open pores too widely.

As one dermatologist noted, “you can irritate your skin by choosing overly abrasive formulas and applying too much pressure. That doesn’t mean you have ditch physical exfoliants altogether, however. Instead, just choose gentler alternatives,” such as rice powder, rice bran, and plant rice treatments. Avoid sugar or salt scrubs, nut shells, fruit stones or pits, or “beads” that are designed to ruggedly slough the skin.

If manual exfoliation is of no interest, consider the use of chemical exfoliants. There are many daily treatment pads that will remove the outermost layer of dead cells and other contaminants. Gentler than scrubs, they can also include blackhead blocking compounds such as alpha-hydroxy acid and beta-hydroxy acid.

Cleansing with a salicylic acid formula is also great as this will eliminate most material clogging the pores, Remember too that removing all traces of makeup at the end of each day will make it even easier to avoid blackheads.

Skincare solutions that can help to prevent blackhead formation in the first place also include evening treatments of topical retinoids that support cellular turnover and help prevent future blackhead formation by unclogging pores.

When the skin is showing signs of breakouts or blackheads, a simple tea tree oil product is often great for opening the glands and eliminating blackheads. Also, tea tree oil is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, making it great for preventing any irritation or infection.

Related: Must Know Foundation Tips for Acne Prone Skin

Can Blackheads Become Infected?

Yes, and yet there are some caveats to that statement. Let’s look at it closer to help you understand.

Treating blackheads usually leads many people to squeeze them and extract the blockage at home. However, medical and skincare experts warn against it. As one UK-based dermatologist explained, “You should absolutely not squeeze blackheads. Squeezing a [blackhead] can push the inflammation deeper and this can cause scarring of the skin… There are procedural treatments where blackheads can be extracted but these need to be carried out by someone trained appropriately.”

So, resist the urge to squeeze a blackhead because it could force the blockage deeper into the skin where irritation and infection can turn into an acne pimple of one kind or another. If this does happen, it is a good idea to visit a dermatologist or skincare professional to address the issue and find out what you can do to better improve your anti-blackhead skincare routine.

What will they do? Typically, they begin with topical antibiotics to prevent bacteria from spreading, and some prescribe oral medications to further halt the spread. If infected, it may be on the way to becoming an acne cyst and that needs professional attention. If it does not require draining, a corticosteroid injection may halt the swelling and pain an infected blackhead can cause.

Related: This is How Often You Should Exfoliate

Can You Eliminate Blackheads Entirely?

One question, or wish, those who experience blackheads regularly want to know is whether or not they might be able to eliminate the issue altogether. In other words, can you get rid of blackheads and keep them away permanently?

One skincare expert has this to say, “there is no easy way to permanently get rid of blackheads… your best bet is regular, monthly deep-pore cleansing facials where a skilled esthetician can soften the pores and manually remove them.”

Another did say that diligence in regular, daily skincare can cause the worst blackhead issues to resolve themselves. Of course, that will lead many to wonder if blackheads will clear up on their own.

The answer, which is likely to frustrate many, is that they do not just disappear. As one expert explained, “blackheads won’t go away by themselves — they will only grow and are usually the first stage of acne.”

The way to “eliminate” them, is to look at the issue a bit differently and develop a multi-phase solution that includes:

• Daily skin cleansing that uses products ideally formulated for individual needs – Use a daily cleanser, an evening cleanser, specialty products to address blackheads, such as the pads or tea tree oil products, and so on.
• Exfoliate regularly – This may not be necessary on a daily basis, but it must occur several times a week to eliminate the built up dead skin cells that can trap excess sebum in the pore and cause the blockage that turns into a blackhead.
• Do at-home steam treatments – Softening up the pores can allow any plugs to also breakup and pass. This can be done in the shower or simply by holding the head over a bowl of steaming hot water. A hot and wet cloth can also be gently pressed against the skin to soften pores and loosen clogs.
• Skip the oil – Another final step to consider in the regular skincare routine is to eliminate any oil-based products, and go sulfur-free with skincare. This eliminates the risks of the irritation and clogging that are so tightly connected to the development of blackheads.

You will also want to take expert advice and look towards the products that seem to best address the issue of blackheads.

What Products Help Fight or Eliminate Blackheads?

There are specific ingredients to consider when you want to cut down your risks for blackheads and address any breakouts. They include:

• Salicylic Acid – This, as we noted, is now an OTC option and is “preferred” in the fight against both blackheads and whiteheads. This is because it is an acid gentle enough to break down dead skin and oils without irritating the skin. A salicylic acid cleanser is one of the best options.
• Topical Retinoids –  These are useful for those with acne and they also boost the effectiveness of other skincare products. They enter the follicle easily and soften the clogged materials and pores, enabling the cleansing process to work more effectively while reducing further buildup.
• Clay and Charcoal Masks – Many people with oily skin also have chronic blackheads and pimples. Clay is great at absorbing the oil, dirt and other materials that clog pores and may even loosen and empty the pore with a blackhead. Look for those with sulfur that can further boost the breakdown of clogs and use masks once each week. Charcoal is similar and also offers detoxifying properties as it absorbs impurities from the pore.
• Chemical Exfoliants and Peels – We already considered the benefits of a chemical exfoliant over the possible irritations of one using granular materials to slough the skin. Chemical peels work in the same way by refreshing the skin, removing dead cells and tightening the pores.  

Related: Everything You Need to Know About Salicylic Acid

So, you now understand just what blackheads are, and how to prevent as well as treat them. Try to keep in mind that gentle solutions are usually the most effective. Don’t squeeze blackheads to remove the blockages, gently cleanse the skin a few times daily with products that can soften skin and pores and eliminate clogs. Visit your dermatologist regularly if you cannot get blackhead breakouts under control, because the regimens we have outlined above should treat them effectively. If not, it may be signs of acne or another skin condition in need of expert help.

More Great Blackhead Resources:

How to Get Rid of Blackheads: 12 Proven Tricks

How to Recognize and Treat Infected Blackheads

How to Get Rid of Blackheads With These 8 Dermatologist-Approved Products